Ireland - The Gathering

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On Land’s Edge at the Cliffs of Moher

Sitting on the edge of Ireland

Make sense who may. I switch off.

Samuel Beckett

The Irish landscape is rich in colour, majestic and occasionally dangerous for the unwary traveller. The Cliffs of Moher thrust out of the Atlantic Ocean as great bulwark against the ferocious storms that pound the coastline, and carved their fury into the cliff face.

A fenced pathway and local rangers are there to keep visitors away from the cliff edge but as many clamber over the fence as those that trod obediently along the safe route. Wind gusts and crumbling edges can catch the unwary, and many people have plunged to an untimely death here. But the sense of freedom and exhilaration of sitting on the edge of Ireland is hard to resist while we ate our simple lunch and enjoyed the view.

Not content with the danger on the cliff tops, Irish surfers plunge down massive walls of water at the cliff base to challenge nature on the water’s edge as well. We loved the view but we will leave the surfing to the Irish.

Cliffs of MoherCollen and Steve on the Cliffs of Moher Cliffs of Moher Walking on the Edge O'Briens Tower Cliffs of Moher

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Filed Under: bottom, landscape Tagged With: cliffs of moher, Ireland

Colourful Dingle

Dingle-4

There’s no reason to bring religion into it. I think we ought to have as great a regard for religion as we can, so as to keep it out of as many things as possible.

Sean O’Casey

Fishing Fleet - Dingle Harbour

Fishing Fleet – Dingle Harbour

Autumn arrives in early morning, but spring at the close of a winter day.

Elizabeth Bowen

Viking Heritage

Viking Heritage

A man travels the world over in search of what he needs and returns home to find it.

George A. Moore

Dingle Harbour

Dingle Harbour

Even if the hopes you started out with are dashed, hope has to be maintained.

Seamus Heaney

 

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Filed Under: bottom, landscape Tagged With: dingle, fog, Ireland

A Literary Journey in Ireland

Oscar Wilde Statue - Dublin

A great artist is always before his time or behind it.

George Moore

If tragedy, suffering, bigotry and depression create the fodder for great literature, is it any wonder that Ireland produces so many great writers, poets and playwrights?

During the Dark Ages, Ireland shielded the written word against the barbarism of the Roman Empire’s decaying ruins and became a haven for scholars seeking knowledge and enlightenment. They travelled from Rome itself to learn from the St Edna on Inishmore, and hundreds like him spread throughout the furthest corners of this Celtic island. A candle of hope that flickering behind the dark curtain of ignorance but once pulled aside its light flooded into the empty space to illuminate the known world again.

The great Irish writers shone that same light on their Nation’s struggles from the searing satire of British colonialism in Jonathan Swift’s Gulliver’s Travels to the brutal poverty in Frank McCourt’s memoirs, Angela’s Ashes and ‘Tis. Most famous of all is Oscar Wilde; the flamboyant writer lampooned British upper-class snobbery, and delved deep into the darkness of man’s heart with equal skill and attention. Widely revered and quoted, his works are largely unread by the modern populace but Oscar’s words reach out from the past to skewer the facile existence of many modern lives.

One’s real life is so often the life that one does not lead.

Oscar Wilde

James Joyce gave us his opus, Ulysses a rambling retelling of Homer’s Odyssey through his Dubliners’ trials through the pubs, libraries and brothels on one notable day. Many readers lift this mighty tome but few put it down read much less understood. People employ guides, maps, lists and annotations to follow the complex plot through its 700 pages (Gabler Edition) making it their own personal odyssey and I must confess this novel defeated me at my first attempt (a second is pending).

After his early work to renew the Celtic myths, William Butler Yeats spent his latter years writing about Ireland’s transition to independence that painful yet joyous path to freedom in their own Nation. An ardent nationalist, he joined the IRA in his early years but distanced himself from political life as he grew older perhaps wiser until 1920. In 1922, Yeats (57) became a Senator in Irish Free State and he became a great advocate for the separation of Church and State. His poetry grew stronger in his latter years and his transition from a classical style to 20th Century modernism are often compared with his fellow artist Pablo Picasso’s transition in painting. Whether he truly made that leap into modernity is an academic trite, his words reverberate through time and his epitaph left us one last riddle.

Cast a cold Eye
On Life, on Death.
Horseman, pass by!

Great Blasket IslandNo where is Ireland’s love of the written word more evident than the Great Blasket Centre on the tip of the Dingle Peninsular dedicated to the extraordinary literary legacy of a small island community on Great Blasket Island and their struggle for survival. Tomás Ó Criomhthain wrote two incredible books (The Islandman and Island Cross Talk) about his life on the island, thoroughly absorbing and vivid tales of his way of life and the people with whom he shared the hardship of their remote island community. His success inspired other islanders to write about their lives, Peig Sayers and Muiris Ó Súilleabháin are the best known but dozens penned their tales in frenzy of writing as their island community withered in the late forties and early fifties. The final Great Blasket Island residents were evacuated in 1953, and their tale is told by Tomás’ son Seán in his book Lá dár Saol. Baile Átha Cliath Oifig an tSoláthair 1969 or, in English A Day in Our Life. Translated by Tim Enright. Oxford University Press, 1992. The shear volume of work from a community that never numbered more than 150 ensured that they will not be forgotten, helped to preserve the Irish language and the stories of their unique way of life. As Tomás Ó Criomhthain wrote in his final chapter:

I have written minutely of much that we did, for it was my wish that somewhere there should be a memorial of it all, and I have done my best to set down the character of the people about me so that some record of us might live after us, for the like of us will never be again.

Oscar Wilde Quote

Oscar Wilde Quote

W.B. Yeats' Grave

W.B. Yeats’ Grave

Great Blasket Centre Stained Glass

Great Blasket Centre Stained Glass

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Filed Under: bottom, history Tagged With: books, Ireland, literature, playwright, poet, writing

Looping around the Dingle Pennisular

The Dingle Peninsular is a spectacular coastline, less travelled than the Ring of Kerry, and Rick recommends skirting the latter to concentrate on Dingle Peninsular’s views and history. For film buffs, it is also where Robert Mitchum filmed Ryan’s Daughter in 1970. Enjoy my images:

View from Slea Head

View from Slea Head

Life, it seems to me, is worth living, but only if we avoid the amusements of grown-up people.

Robert Lynd

Dingle Peninsular near Ballyferriter

Dingle Peninsular near Ballyferriter

I heard the old, old, men say ‘all that’s beautiful drifts away, like the waters.’

William Butler Yeats

The crew capturing the view.

The crew capturing the view.

The true mystery of the world is the visible, not the invisible.

Oscar Wilde

An Riasc

An Riasc

Finding the right work is like discovering your own soul in the world.

Thomas Moore

Gallarus Oratory

Gallarus Oratory

You can preach a better sermon with your life than with your lips.

Oliver Goldsmith

Finding illumination in Gallarus Oratory

Finding illumination in Gallarus Oratory

God is a character, a real and consistent being, or He is nothing. If God did a miracle He would deny His own nature and the universe would simply blow up, vanish, become nothing.

Joyce Cary

Ruined church of Kilmalkedar

Ruined church of Kilmalkedar

The best decision I ever made was to become a priest and I think the second best was to resign.

John O’Donohue

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Filed Under: bottom, landscape Tagged With: church, dingle, Ireland, monastery, oratory

Kissane Farm – Of Dogs and Sheep

Kissane Farm - Shephard

Nothing happens, nobody comes, nobody goes, it’s awful.

Samuel Beckett

Visiting a working farm, seeing and hearing about their struggles opens your mind to the plight of modern farmers in the Western World. Once profitable commodities like wool have become drains on many small farms, sheep must sheared but the wool is worthless in a market demanding ever finer and cheaper wool from suppliers.

Kissane Farm is a larger operation than many Irish farms but it is tourism and crowd funding that keeps the farm from failure; meat, wool and other farm produce are almost the sideline markets. It is a common problem in small rural areas, large corporate farms have reduced prices to the point where independent farmers cannot make a living from their properties. Many fail, sell to the multi-nationals or hand the land over to their bankers before heading to the cities and a life away from the open spaces.

Sheep dog and shearing demonstrations, the sale of bespoke items and an intriguing Adopt a Sheep program all contribute to the Kissane Farm financial security. And hey, it was a great fun watching the dogs herd the sheep reacting to the shepard’s commands to bring them all home.

Shearing a ewe

Shearing a ewe

Irish Sheep

Irish Sheep

Round them up

Round them up

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Filed Under: activity, bottom Tagged With: dog, farm, Ireland, sheep, shepard

Kilmainham Gaol

Imprisoned

It is a maxim among these lawyers, that whatever hath been done before, may legally be done again: and therefore they take special care to record all the decisions formerly made against common justice and the general reason of mankind.

Jonathan Swift

Kilmainham Gaol, on Dublin’s outskirts, is reviled as a place of suffering and death for Irish patriots struggling to free their country from English rule. Yet to the English, Kilmainham was a model gaol for the health and well-being of its prisoners replacing the barbaric conditions of the previous age. Used most notably as a political prison, Irish revolutionaries imprisoned there are synonymous with Ireland’s struggle for independence. Its last prisoner, Eamon de Valera, became President of the Irish Republic and led his people to develop a socially and culturally conservative society shunning militant republicanism.

The prison lay derelict for decades until local historians sought to preserve it as a significant site in Irish history, and the restored buildings evoke unease as you listen to the guide’s stories of those incarcerated here. Of course, many petty criminals and brutal thugs also spent time in Kilmainham, and it would be wrong to impart on them the sympathy accorded the political prisoners although some were equally brutal in their pursuit of independence.

Kilmainham offers a glimpse of Irish history through the lens of political imprisonment, a stirring and tragic tale that only tells one side of a multifaceted history but a story any visitor to Ireland should understand before heading deeper into the country and its history.

Cell Block - Kilmainham

Cell Block – Kilmainham

Trust in Her

Trust in Her

Constrained Movement

Constrained Movement

A Republic in Waiting.

A Republic in Waiting.

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Filed Under: history, middle Tagged With: gaol, independence, Ireland, kilmainham

With a Song in my Heart

Musical Fun

THAT crazed girl improvising her music.
Her poetry, dancing upon the shore…

W.B. Yeats

From traditional folk music to hard bitten rock anthems, Ireland is a country immersed in their music heritage and the rich tradition of live performance. We began our musical journey on a Musical Pub Crawl in Dublin, our guides explained the different styles, traditional instruments and taught us all to play the boot (stomping the beat). They encouraged us to bring our music to the evening, and Suzanne took up the challenge to share a song from her heart. The pub crawl is aimed at the tourists but it is a great introduction to the Irish folk traditions and the music you will encounter in every pub in Ireland.

In Kinsale, we headed to the local pubs and joined the locals as the belted out the gritty sometimes bawdy songs. While the tourists still outnumbered the locals (at least early in the evening), they played to their passions with strong voices and instrumental skills beyond their amateur status. Grab a Murphy’s (the preferred stout in County Cork), play the boot and if the mood takes you chime in to share a song from your home.

In Dingle, we visited Siopa Ceoil for an introduction to the Irish language from the music shop’s enthusiastic owner Michael Herlihy. Michael’s encyclopaedic knowledge and passion for Irish music is infectious, and he hosts intimate concerts in his shop featuring some of Ireland’s best musicians and dancers. We had the pleasure of seeing Niamh Varian-Barry from the acclaimed Irish-American band Solas play with her husband Peter Staunton, fresh from their honeymoon the interplay between them made the music simply magical. Throw in World Champion Irish dancer David Geaney, and you have the full evening of Irish entertainment.

Music is everywhere in Ireland, walking down Grafton St (Dublin) on our last tour day we stopped to listen to Mutefish a reggae folk ‘n punk band that started as a busking project on the streets of Dublin in 2007. Although the Irish folk music influence is unmistakable, the original band members all hail from Eastern Europe with Daithi (flute/tin whistle) joining them in 2010 to add some Irish authenticity to their unique sound. The only souvenir we brought home was a copy of Mutefish’s CD On Draught, a great accompaniment to our Irish photo memories.

Sausages Sausages Mash

Sausages Sausages Mash

Suzanne shares her music.

Suzanne shares her music.

Musical Gathering in Kinsale

Musical Gathering in Kinsale

Dingle Music Magic

Dingle Music Magic

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Filed Under: activity, bottom Tagged With: fiddle, Ireland, music

From Kells to Trinity College

Old Library - Trinity College

I bring to you with reverent hands the books of my numberless dreams.

W.B.Yeats

In 9th Century A.D. Ireland, Monks brought a richly illustrated copy of the Four Gospels to Kells and established a Columban Monastery. The Monks had created this masterpiece on Iona, Scotland but fearing its destruction they brought it home to Ireland for safekeeping. The Book of Kells is now held at Trinity College in Dublin, and is widely regarded as one of the finest examples of Dark Age art in Europe but almost no one remembers the small hamlet of Kells whose people kept the text safe for hundreds of years.

We visited Trinity College on our first day, a long wait in line, jostling crowds in the exhibit and an excited crowd of Freshers outside overwhelmed the actual experience of viewing this famous artefact. Housed in the Old Library, it is the most famous of thousands of manuscripts housed in this venerable place of learning. Not unlike the Mona Lisa in Paris, the Book of Kells is on everyone’s must see list for Dublin but most will file past the open pages swept along by the crowd, ticking a box on their list without really understanding the history or sacrifice required to create and preserve this beautiful text.

The Monks, great artisans and keepers of the Faith through the Dark Ages, created a text that evokes the majesty and splendour of Heaven and illuminates the Word of God for those privileged to be able to read the Gospels.

On our side trip to Ballyshannon, Colleen and I took a short detour to Kells and visited the village that preserved this copy of the Gospels for the modern tourist. St Columba’s Church stands on the site of the original monastery, and houses a copy of the book and a small historic exhibit of the site. Four great Celtic Crosses adorn the churchyard, and although the monastery is no longer evident in the grounds the history enveloped me as we walked through the graveyard and around the 16th Century church. The generations buried beneath our feet had protected the book for centuries but most would never see it, much less be allowed to read the Holy Gospels for themselves. Their sacrifice allowed us a glimpse into the luminous artistry of an age known for darkness and evil, and I’m glad we had the opportunity to visit the Book of Kells true home.

St Columba's Church - Kells

St Columba’s Church – Kells

Celtic Cross Relief

Celtic Cross Relief

Trinity College

Trinity College – Freshers Week

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Filed Under: history, middle Tagged With: book, Ireland, kells, religion, Trinity College

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